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Archive for the ‘Insider recommendations’ Category

Redheads and fish and chips – why I felt at home in Barga

Monday, February 22nd, 2010

Barga, a beguiling 10th century hilltop town, sits on the edge of Tuscany’s Garfagnana region, nestled beneath the towering peaks of the Apuan Alps and the Apennines. It’s a champion of ‘slow food’ – think locally grown porcini mushrooms, pecorino cheeses, sublime chestnut-inspired desserts, indulgent black truffles and leisurely lunches – but it sticks in my mind for an entirely different reason. Walking the sleepy, cobbled backstreets of this medieval town, I remember noticing a disproportionate number of fellow redheads. On further investigation, it would seem that Barga has very close ties with somewhere much closer to home…West Scotland to be precise. This Tuscan gem has a Scottish legacy that dates back to the 19th century when many of its inhabitants migrated to Scotland to escape poverty, often opening up ice cream and fish and chip shops. Nowadays, the flow of people has reversed and the town is home to a number of Scots. Barga even celebrates its strong ties with Scotland with La Sagra Del Pesce e Patate - the Fish ‘n’ Chip Festival which is held every August. Paisley singer-songwriter Paolo Nutini is also rumoured to appear at this sleepy town’s modest annual jazz festival – now I know why. Sarah Belcher

Drink in some of the best views around the world

Monday, February 8th, 2010

The Endeavour shuttle blasted off yesterday affording astronauts a 360° view around the International Space Station. While tour operators don’t offer trips to the moon (yet), we spoke to some AITO members that offer the best observation decks and amazing 360° vistas around the world, here are their selections.

GRAND CANYON SKYWALK - £1,895pp + £695 flights for 15 day Rockies/Grand Canyon tour
Small group hiking around the Grand Canyon and camping in the depths of this awe-inspiring gorge. This tour covers hikes in Yellowstone national parks, to wilderness lakes and world-famous geysers and in the Rocky Mountains, as well as camping out with the Navajo in Monument Valley. Price includes accommodation. Call AITO member KE Adventure Travel on 017687 73966 (www.keadventure.com)

 

 

DACHSTEIN SKY WALK- £745 for 12 day self-guided Dachstein Hiking tour excluding flights
This hiking tour takes in dozens of Alpine peaks over 2,500 metres and alternates lakeside town hotels with nights spent high in the mountains in comfortable Alpine lodges. Visit this spectacular viewing platform, made partly from glass, with amazing views from its 2,700 metre breathtaking outlook. Tours run daily from July-September with AITO member Walks Worldwide on 0845 3014737. Price includes B&B accommodation, boat and cable car costs, maps and route notes. Minimum 2 people. www.walksworldwide.com.

 

 

AUCKLAND’S 328-METRE SKY TOWER - 21 day New Zealand trip excluding flights for £982pp
Buy a 21-day ‘off-season’ self-drive ‘Pure and Simple’ holiday to New Zealand for £982 pp (excluding flights). Take in the view from the glass-floored viewing platform, on a comprehensive visit around the stunning North and South Islands. The trip includes the beaches of the north, the thermal area of Rotorua, the rugged west coast, the Southern Lakes and Alps. Price includes accommodation and car hire. Valid from April to October with AITO member Discover the World on 01737 218800. (www.discover-the-world.co.uk)

 

 

MOUNT RORAIMA, VENEZUELA - 16 nights from £3,840 including flights
See this 2,810-metre mountain with a 31-km summit area on the Gran Sabana leg of the 16 night ‘Highlights of Venezuela’ tour. Exploring one of Venezuela’s most unusual and surreal regions, you can look down over the 55-metre high free-falling falls at Salto Kama Meru, travel by canoe to the 110-km high Chinak Meru falls and visit viewpoints for Mount Roraima, Venezuela’s most famous ‘tepuy’ which inspired Arthur Conan Doyle’s novel, ‘The Lost World’. Call AITO member Sunvil Traveller – Real Latin America on 0208 758 4774 (www.sunvil.co.uk)

 

 

AURLAND LOOKOUT, NORWAY - £2,175pp including flights for 12 night self-drive tour
The 14-night ‘Best of the Fjords’ self-drive holiday gives a wonderful taste of Norway’s’ spectacular fjords, glaciers and mountain scenery. It also features some of Norway’s finest hotels. Don’t miss a drive on your journey between Lofthus and Balestrand up to the stunning Aurland lookout perched 2,000 ft above the fjords. Departures from 15 May – 15 Sept with AITO member Specialised Tours on 01342 712785. Price includes flights, accommodation and car hire. (www.specialisedtours.com)

 

 

ANCIENT MACHU PICCHU, PERU - £3,264 including flights for 14 nights
The 14-night Chasqui Tour combines the colonial city of Arequipa, crossing dizzyingly high passes to enter Colca Canyon, Lake Titicaca and a train ride to Cusco. A highlight of the tour is the trek along the Inca Trail to ancient Machu Picchu. Price includes tour guide, flights and accommodation. 0208 762 0616. www.veloso.com.

 

 

IGUAZU FALLS - £1788 pp for 7 nights including flights on Golondrina Getaway Journey
New for 2010 is the 7-night trip to Brazil and Argentina offering the chance to wander the walkways among the thundering Iguazú Falls, gaze down on Rio from the statue of Christ the Redeemer atop the Corcovado mountain, take the cable car up Sugarloaf mountain and explore Buenos Aires. Price from £1,728 pp includes ex-UK and local flights and seven night’s B&B accommodation. Call AITO member Journey Latin America on 0208 747 8315. (www.journeylatinamerica.co.uk)

 

 

TABLE MOUNTAIN, CAPE TOWN - from £600 excluding flights for a week
If you’re after one of the most stunning views in Africa, look no further than the city of Cape Town. Take the cable car to the top of Table Mountain, taking in a 360 degree view of the city or climb up by foot. Wake up surrounded by stunning views from a choice of boutique hotels, villas and apartments situated on its slopes. Prices from £600 for a week, excluding flights. Call AITO member Fleewinter on 0207 112 0019 (www.fleewinter.co.uk)

 

 

TREKS AND TREASURES, IRAN - £1,640 pp + £400 flight for 14 day tour
This tour combines a 7-8 day trek reaching a highpoint of 3300m in the Zagros mountains, with visits to Shiraz, Isfahan, Persepolis and other sights of old Persia. The trek includes meeting the nomadic people of the Qashqai tribes, visiting picturesque settlements and passing close to the Dena peak, one of the highest in the Zagros range. Call AITO member High Places on 0845 257 7500. (www.highplaces.co.uk)

 

 

THE ICONIC MOUNT FUJI - £1,970 for 14 nights excluding flights
The 14 night ‘Mt. Fuji, Kyoto and the Japanese Alps’ tour moves from buzzing Tokyo to Kawaguchiko, one of the scenic Fuji Five Lakes and from where, in summer, you can arrange a day climb up the 3776m high dormant volcano. Continuing to Kyoto via Matsumoto, there is a breathtaking drive along dramatic gorges to Kamikochi and a visit to the historic town of Takayama. Call AITO member Inside Japan on 0117 314 4620. (www.insidejapantours.com)

 

Ski Olympic-style with AITO

Friday, January 29th, 2010

With only 14 days left to go, the build up to the Winter Olympics in Vancouver is reaching fever pitch, so we spoke to AITO Ski members to see if we could follow in the footsteps of previous medallists and take to the slopes in a resort that previously hosted a Winter Olympics. Here are some ski break from AITO members to some of the most famous Olympic resorts down the years, and some video links to relive the atmosphere from these great events.

St Moritz, Switzerland 1928 & 1948
Sleek St Moritz - 7 nights’ B&B from £899 pp
St Moritz, the birthplace of Alpine winter tourism, has hosted the Winter Olympics twice and has something for everyone with its 350 km of pistes. With an in-house confectioners, 3* Hotel Hauser in St Moritz is the perfect place for a ski holiday. 7 nights’ B&B in March at the centrally located hotel, with Swiss flights and rail transfers costs from £899pp. Call AITO member Ski Safari on 01273 224 060

Squaw Valley, USA 1960
4,000 acres of skiing in Squaw Valley - from £1,099 pp for 7 nights in January
Celebrating 50 years since holding the Winter Olympics, Squaw Valley offers fabulous skiing and snowboarding overlooking the beautiful high alpine Lake Tahoe. Non-skiers will enjoy a variety of other activities, from snow-tubing to spa treatments or a visit to the Olympic Museum. 7 nights from 10 February at ski in/out 3* Squaw Valley Lodge, including flights and 4X4 car hire from £1,050pp. Call AITO member Ski Safari on 01273 224 060

Grenoble, France 1968
Vaujany in the Alpe d’Huez, Grenoble - £649 pp
Perched on a beautifully scenic slope in the corner of the Alpe d’Huez piste map near Grenoble lies the pretty village of Vaujany. Relax in true Alpine style by the roaring wood fire whilst the finishing touches to the evening’s culinary treats are made at Chalet Lucette. A week costs £649 pp fully catered including flights and transfers. Call AITO member Ski Peak on 01428 608070

Calgary, Canada 1988
Banff in Canada’s Rocky Mountains - £893 pp
An hour and a half from Calgary lies the beautiful town of Banff amidst the towering Rocky Mountains. A stay at the comfortable Banff Inn this February costs £885pp based on two sharing, including scheduled flights and resort transfers. You can ski in Banff at Norquay or Sunshine and take in a visit to Lake Louise too or perhaps visit the Olympic Park in Calgary, where, amongst others Eddie Edwards and the Jamaican Bobsleigh Team, found fame. Call AITO member Frontier Ski on 020 8776 8709

Albertville, France 1992
Adrenalin in La Plagne - £599 pp for 7 nights
With a bobsleigh run built for the 1992 Winter Olympics which is within easy access to the slopes, La Plagne offers an exciting holiday for adrenalin seekers. Its extensive ski area offers opportunities for all ages and abilities. 7 nights at the traditional Chalet Marguerite, La Plagne 1800 (sleeping 10/11) costs £679 per adult, £629 per child, including flights, transfers and chalet board for 20th March. Call AITO member Ski Beat on 01243 780 405

Lillehammer, Norway 1994
Norwegian Olympic Lillehammer – from £698 pp for 3 night break
The dramatic mountains above Lillehammer, home of the 1994 Winter Olympics, make a fantastic destination for a Norwegian ski trip. Make the most of the local ski school, with a resident British ski instructor, and fill your days on the slopes or cross-country skiing. Later relax in front of a log fire in the inviting lounges of the Rustad Hotel in Sjusjoen, trying the Norwegian specialities in the excellent restaurant. From £698pp including flights (Heathrow), transfers and 3 nights’ half board with lunch packs. Call AITO member Inntravel on 01653 617000

Nagano, Japan 1998
A week in Japan combining the white slopes of Hakuba and neon lights of Tokyo from £622 pp
Stay for five nights in the Hakuba Valley, deep in the Japanese Alps of Honshu and home to eight resorts which hosted the 1998 Nagano Winter Olympics. With the ski season running to the end of April, the seven-night holiday costs £622 pp including two nights’ hotel accommodation in Tokyo and five nights lodge accommodation in Hakuba with breakfast, airport transfers, transport between destinations and information pack. Flights with Swiss, with departures from Heathrow and Manchester, start from £475 pp. Call AITO member InsideJapan Tours on 0117 314 4621

Salt Lake City, USA, 2002
Park City, Utah - 7 nights’ B&B from £1,025 pp
Park City, within easy reach of other Utah top skiing areas Deer Valley and The Canyons, offers ideal skiing for all the family. With numerous ski schools, over 100 restaurants and bars and only 40 minutes from Salt Lake City, 7 nights’ B&B from 22 February at the popular family-run 3* Park City Peaks Hotel with flights and transfers costs from £1,135pp. Call AITO member Ski Safari on 01273 224 060

Vancouver, Canada 2010
Olympic spectator sports in Whistler - £2,680 pp for a week
Visit Whistler this March and enjoy the resort, its slopes and all the excitement of the biggest winter sports event on the planet! With the Peak 2 Peak gondola to Blackcomb, fantastic snow and a multitude of Olympic events, Whistler is bound to appeal to all. A week at the luxurious 5* Chateau Whistler costs £1,709pp, based on 2 sharing, including flights and transfers. Call AITO member Frontier Ski on 020 8776 8709


Ian Bradley

A map collating 2010’s hottest destinations

Wednesday, December 23rd, 2009

I’ve collated various tips for hot travel destinations in 2010, and displayed them all, with explanatory description, in one Google Map.  Click the grab below to go through to the map itself - and enjoy!  Richard.

hot-destinations

A Spa Safari in Austria

Wednesday, December 23rd, 2009

Once the turkey’s all eaten, the mince pies demolished and even the last few unwanted Quality Streets in the tin have finally found favour (orange cream anyone?) most fit-to-bursting bodies will be crying out for a detox. Having recently returned from a whistle-stop tour of some of Austria’s finest spa hotels (a pre-emptive strike on my anticipated festive flab), I can think of nothing nicer.

First stop, the Alpenresort Schwarz, a chocolate-box perfect four-star hotel in the Tirol which, like most of the properties in Austria’s Finest Spa Hotels & Resorts programme (www.austria.info/spa), is family-run – this one by the charming Herr & Frau Pirktl. After a massage guaranteed to unknot even the most stressed Eurostar executive, you can take a dip in one of seven pools at the newly-opened Schwarz Water World or simply sink into a relaxation area – my favourite resembled a soft play area for adults, dimly lit and strewn with suspended, womb-like pods where drifting into a sublime deep sleep is only a matter of minutes away.

Indoor golf at the Interalpen-Hotel Tyrol

Indoor golf at the Interalpen-Hotel Tyrol

After a delicious dinner accompanied by an evening of entertainment from the staff of the Schwarz – including Herr Pirktl himself, it was time to move on to our second spa hotel. The five-star Interalpen Hotel Tyrol sits amid spectacular Alpine isolation – imagine the hotel from iconic movie ‘The Shining’, but without Jack Nicholson running amok! Built in traditional Tyrolean style, yet on a scale that wouldn’t look out of place on the Las Vegas Strip, guests approaching the Interalpen by car arrive via an marble-clad underground car park from where it’s an effortless hop to the hotel’s impressive lobby. Clutching a hand-picked rose stem courtesy of the reception staff (I’m a soft touch for a free flower) we were escorted to what the hotel classes as a standard double room whilst, to the rest of us mortals, it comes closer in size to an upper-end central London apartment. And, if two large double beds, a sitting room area, enormous bathroom and walk-in wardrobe (a total dream for Carrie Bradshaw wannabes) isn’t enough, the hotel’s penthouse suite with panoramic mountain-top views provides the perfect bolthole for paparazzi-shy A listers or Europe’s more monied spa-seekers.

And the spa itself? Wow. Over 5,000 square metres of steam rooms, massage and beauty suites await as well as a Tirolean sauna village complete with running stream, water wheel and birdsong. Purely for research purposes (you understand), I tried a Dermalogica facial (superb) and full body massage (amazing), both carried out by friendly and über-professional practitioners in scrupulously-clean treatment rooms, each with its own private view overlooking ubiquitous snow clad pine trees. Equally idyllic for male and female spa enthusiasts, there are mixed and single-sex sauna areas, a delightful chill-out area boasting waterbeds, cosy throws and – in winter – a warming log fire. Husband or boyfriend the type to get bored sitting around in his dressing gown all day? Look no further than the Interalpen’s latest attraction – an indoor putting green and golf simulator that enables sporting types to play a round at some of the world’s best courses…without even leaving the hotel.

Last but certainly not least, the third hotel on this superb spa safari was the five-star Posthotel Resort & Spa. Nestled in the picturesque Alpine village of Achenkirch am Achensee, this is one of two properties owned and run by the Reiter family whose considerable talents extend beyond warm hospitality to interior design (everything you see around the hotel can be purchased in the shopping mall) and even horse husbandry - Herr Reiter’s speciality is Lippizaners, many of which are stabled at the Posthotel and available for guests to ride.

Picture perfect: Alpine splendour at the Posthotel, Achenkirch

Picture perfect: Alpine splendour at the Posthotel, Achenkirch

Slightly alarmed to hear that my treatment plan here included cupping (think Gwyneth Paltrow) I am pleased to report that, whilst it’s an odd sensation at first (imagine your skin getting sucked slowly through a small funnel) my epidermis has lived to tell the tale. Add to that a lymph drainage massage for face, neck and décolleté, and the Atrium Spa had certainly done its darnedest to prepare me for the Christmas party season! Karen Carpenter.

Destinations of the past decade & future hotspots

Monday, December 21st, 2009

After bringing us the likes of Simon Cowell, Osama Bin Laden, Jordan and Jedward, the Noughties are almost over. But what were the Destinations of the Decade – stunning new places that are now firmly on the tourism map – and what will be the holiday hotspots of the Twenty-Tens/Oh-tens/Teenies/Tenties/Tenners? We asked  some of our expert clients:

**The Noughties**

The trend of the decade: Staycations
“Of the many holiday destinations British travellers have turned to in the past decade, our own backyard, the UK, has fared especially well as its appeal broadened. The profile of Cornwall, in particular, has grown since 2000 partly due to a rash of new attractions, from the Eden Project to high-profile celebrity restaurants like Fifteen: Cornwall, while Newquay has become synonymous with Britain’s new found passion for surfing. New air links have made Cornwall more accessible for residents across the country, and an increase in accommodation options – from the green to the ultra-luxurious – mean everyone is catered for, and at a higher standard than ever before. Long live the staycation!”
Simon Tregoning, MD of West Country expert Classic Cottages (01326 555 555, www.classic.co.uk)

The short break of the decade: Unknown Italy
“As people worked longer hours throughout the decade, they felt the need to get away more frequently – and short breaks consequently exploded in popularity, with Italy leading the way. Although Venice, Florence and Rome remain the classic choices, the likes of Sicily and the art cities of northern Italy – such as Bologna, Mantua and Ravenna – have enjoyed a steady rise in visitor demand. Just when you think you’ve seen every great Italian town or city, there’s always another one to seek out.”
Ted Wake, Director of Sales & Marketing of short break specialist Kirker Holidays* (020 7593 2283, www.kirkerholidays.com)

The short/mid-haul holiday of the decade: Morocco
“Ten years ago the short break really took off: and, after Paris and Madrid, the exotic appeal of Marrakech suddenly registered. Just three hours away existed a cultural vortex – a land of souks, sorcerers, spas and sun, and a very cost-effective one at that. Beyond Marrakech lay similar jewels; packed into a relatively small country were ski resorts and high mountains, beaches, first-class golf-courses, Berber villages and the most scenic of desert-scapes. Announced in 2001, King Mohammed VI’s ambitious Vision 2010 tourism plan saw eight million visitors to Morocco in 2008, a 400% rise on 2000’s numbers.”
Steve Diederich, is VP of UK Sales & Operations for Travelzest Plc, incorporating The Best of Morocco (0845 026 4588, www.realmorocco.com)

The ski resort of the decade: Kicking Horse, in British Columbia
“Kicking Horse Mountain Resort started life as Whitetooth Ski Area, run by local volunteers in the town of Golden. In 1999 it was bought and hugely upgraded, reopening in Dec 2000 under its new name. Back then, few people knew of it: today Kicking Horse has worldwide renown for its powder, challenging skiing and 4,133ft vertical drop, second in Canada only to Whistler Blackcomb, and also as a fine option for beginner or intermediate skiers.  Bring on the next decade, too: there’s newly a ten-year, $300 million development plan in place to expand Kicking Horse by 1750 acres.”
Richard Rice, MD of Ski Safari and committee member of AITO Ski (020 8744 9280, www.aitoskiholidays.co.uk)

The safari of the decade: Botswana’s Okavango Delta
“In the 1990s, the Okavango was still split up into the Moremi Game Reserve and a number of hunting areas – and tourism to the Delta was relatively small. The last decade has seen a steep change: Southern African safaris are no longer the poor relation of East Africa trips, and the Okavango has turned from a backwater to the continent’s ultimate safari destination. From 2000 onwards, small, often fabulous lodges began arriving in areas previously reserved for hunting: gradually, over the last decade, we’ve seen many of these change to be photographic concessions, where hunting is no longer practiced. Safaris are now firmly established in the Okavango as a much more humane money-spinner.”
Chris McIntyre, MD of Africa specialist Expert Africa* (020 8232 9777, www.expertafrica.com)

The adventure destination of the decade: Vietnam
“Options for the traveller to Vietnam have expanded dramatically in the past decade. There have been vast improvements in the transport and hotel infrastructure, while enterprising locals have introduced an array of ways to see their destination: now there are luxury junk cruises around the incredible karst scenery of Halong Bay, tribal homestays and trekking in the North and Central Highlands, cycling holidays along the Mekong Delta, cookery schools in Hanoi and Hoi An and all sorts of volunteering trips. Combine these with beautiful landscapes, beaches, popular cuisine and a tropical climate, and it’s a winning combination. The icing on the cake is that Vietnam has consistently offered excellent value for money.”  
Peter Crane, Product Director of adventure expert Explore* (0844 499 0901, www.explore.co.uk)

The Latin America trip of the decade: Oaxaca State, Mexico
“During the past decade, more and more people have been discovering Mexico’s rich interior, heading beyond the commercial beach resorts to find colonial cities, elegant architecture, culinary treats and congenial people – all elements which can be found in the state of Oaxaca. In the city of the same name, live performances take place in the main square, chic boutique hotels offer first-class accommodation and grasshoppers fried in chili make for unusual meals. In the country, Zapotec rugs are hand-loomed as they have been for centuries and the tombs of Monte Alban offer arguably Mexico’s best archaeological site. It’s easy to see why enquiries for travel to Oaxaca have risen so steadily over the past decade.”
Lloyd Boutcher, Director of Latin America specialist Sunvil Traveller* (020 8758 4774, www.sunvil.co.uk)
And what’s coming next?
**The Twenty-Tens/Oh-tens/Teenies/Tenties/Tenners**

Zimbabwe – Chris McIntyre
“With the Mugabe era likely to end in the next few years, Zimbabwe’s tourism industry is poised to bounce back, and the good news is that its environments are generally in great shape. The wonderful national parks are all situated on land that’s difficult or impossible to farm, so they remain largely untouched, while much of the game is apparently in good shape, too – even if a few areas have had high levels of hunting.  Recent news has been very encouraging: an apparent upsurge of visitor numbers in 2009, and now a much less unstable, dollar based economy. Once an effective protection plan is re-installed and development returns to the country’s people, I can see it taking off fast in tourism terms. Zimbabwe used to have vastly more visitors than either Botswana or Namibia – and it can do so again.”
Chris McIntyre, MD of Africa specialist Expert Africa* (020 8232 9777, www.expertafrica.com)

Colombia – Peter Crane
“After years of civil unrest and conflict, stability has been restored in Colombia – and mainstream tourism seems likely to follow. Most emblematic of the country’s new era is the city of Medellin: once famed as the home of Pablo Escobar, it’s now a vibrant tourism stop, as new museums, parks and direct flights to Florida attest. All around are new options, however: from plantation stays and jungle trekking to eco-beach retreats and even medical tourism. Officials have boldly estimated 30% annual increases in visitor numbers and it’s easy to see why: put simply, Colombia is the one Latin American destination with every kind of landscape – from beach to mountain, rainforest to plantation.”
Peter Crane, Product Director of adventure expert Explore* (0844 499 0901, www.explore.co.uk)

India for skiing – Richard Rice
“While the likes of Japan, Mongolia and Chile are likely to emerge as viable ski destinations in the coming ten years, and Russia will host the Winter Olympics in 2014, we feel that India’s slopes will be the hottest draw of the next decade.  The Kashmir paradise of Gulmarg is already well-established as a resort, but now there’s talk of Doodpathri and Aur at Pahalgam following suit, and of New Zealand-style heli-skiing at Sonamarg.  Tourism is always involving in India – with ever-improving flight services from the UK – and skiing seems likely to be the next big sector.”
Richard Rice, MD of Ski Safari and committee member of AITO Ski (020 8744 9280, www.aitoskiholidays.co.uk)

Scandinavia – Noel Josephides
 “Scandinavia remains Europe’s last great wilderness, offering dramatic and diverse scenery, excellent food, warm and welcoming people, surprisingly good summer weather and an unexplored, untouched appeal. It is good value – the pound has held up comparatively well against the Swedish and Norwegian currencies, unlike the euro – and it’s so close: flights to Stockholm for example are just 2.5 hours from London. From a short-haul perspective, Scandinavia seems the obvious choice for the discerning traveller in the twenty-tens.”
Noel Josephides is MD and co-founder of short-haul specialist Sunvil Holidays* (020 8758 4758, www.sunvil.co.uk)

Burma – Derek Moore
“Lots of the potential new destinations for the next decade are places that are currently marginal for tourism due to restricted access. North Korea, Zimbabwe and Iran are all ripe for more mainstream tourism if they see internal changes in the coming decade – and especially Burma. This may not necessarily mean a change in regimes but an awakening to the potential earnings of tourism. Burma has a fascinating Buddhist tradition, pagodas stretched down the dreamlike Ayeyarwady, miles of beaches and the cultural idyll of Mandalay.  Despite such unlimited potential for visitors, it will open up slowly, perfect for small tour operators rather than mass market operators.”
Derek Moore is the Chairman of AITO (020 8744 9280, www.aito.com)

South-Eastern Mediterranean – Ted Wake
“Perfect for discerning travellers balancing a sense of adventure with an urge for warm sunshine, the southern and eastern shores of the Mediterranean will prosper as a short break and longer-stay destination in the next decade. Recent infrastructure improvements and the emergence of high-quality, often quirky accommodation in the likes of Syria, Jordan, Lebanon and Israel amount to an unforgettable cultural experience.”
Ted Wake, Director of Sales & Marketing of short break specialist Kirker Holidays* (020 7593 2283, www.kirkerholidays.com)

 

*This company is a member of AITO – the Association of Independent Tour Operators. AITO comprises 140 independent and specialist travel companies providing an unrivalled collection of holiday ideas that cover every corner of the world. Consumers booking with AITO can be assured of 100% financial security, high-quality holidays and excellent personal service. Visit www.aito.com for further information. Richard Mellor

Heavenly hot chocolate in Estonia

Wednesday, December 9th, 2009

My friend Katy Regan and I went on our second mini-break recently. Mini-break number one was to Barcelona in the summer of last year, this time we decided to take in Tallinn. In both cities we did hours of walking but Tallinn by comparison is much, much smaller and more compact than Barcelona and easier to navigate around, although I wish I hadn’t insisted on wearing heels all the time – not the best choice of footwear for cobbled streets, stylish but silly.

Luckily for my feet we took lots of minimini-breaks within our mini-break and stopped off for many hot chocolates. And when I say hot chocolate it really is chocolate – made from melted chocolate, thick and gloopy. Sensibly, when we visited the Chocolaterie Cafe in the tucked away courtyard off Vene street, we stuck to just eating chocolate – white, dark, chili, nutty, fruity plus a piece of (savoury) quiche thrown in - rather than eating and drinking chocolate, that would have been greedy. We sat (and ate)  in the softly lit, cosy establishment, furnished with comfy sofas, velvet throws, burgundy tablecloths and tassled table lamps for quite a while – a great setting for writing one’s novel, Katy said (her second – we’re so proud – the first one is called ‘One Thing Led to Another’).

The first chocolate drink was consumed by the Mayans over 2,000 years ago – cocoa beans were ground and mixed with water, cornmeal and chili peppers.…….today there is a multitude of hot chocolates all around the world. You have the really thick cioccolata densa in Italy, Mexican hot chocolate made from semi-sweet chocolate, cinnamon, sugar and vanilla, there are particular brands of breakfast hot chocolate in France and a pudding-like consistency is traditionally favoured by the Spanish. Here in the UK, similar to the US, a thin version consisting of cocoa powder, sugar and dry milk made with hot water is prolific – in Starbucks you can get a ‘skinny hot chocolate’ – no fun hot chocolate, that’s what I call it and nowhere near as satisfying as the buttery liquid dessert we enjoyed at the New Art Museum Kumu in chic Tallinn, made directly from a bar of chocolate. I consumed 1.5 of these gluttonous treats, Katy just 0.5. 

So where in the UK can you find equally decadent delights ?  Coco Chocolate in Edinburgh produces a luxurious selection of organic chocolate and offers the delectable drink with high cocoa content and all of the necessary cocoa butter, the West Winds Yorkshire Tearooms serve frothy Green and Black’s hot chocolate, with milk, there’s the nationwide Hotel Chocolate whose motto is ‘Less sugar, more cocoa’ or if you pop into Travel PR, we can offer you a mug of hot chocolate, thanks to Galaxy! Mika Bishop.

Impressions of India

Monday, December 7th, 2009

Travelling to and from work I’ve been drawn to the colourful posters of the Incredible India advertising campaign, brightening up train and Tube stations around London, and transported to the tropical waters and the vibrant settings they picture. Having returned from the AITO Conference in Cochin, Kerala, on my first visit to the country, I would say the Ministry of Tourism’s product does exactly what it says on the tin.

After arriving in the early hours and waking up from a few hours’ sleep, the sound of nearby prayers and beeping traffic brought me to the balcony and, stepping into the heat with a close-up of Cochin before me, I immediately felt enveloped by the city’s charming, gentle chaos.

Exploring Cochin around the business sessions of the conference was a real pleasure. A laid-back place with a rich history of colonial influences, notably Portuguese, Dutch and British, today they seem to form a harmonious blend with traditional and modern Indian culture. Part of the British legacy is cricket and talking to the locals while watching a game is a great way to spend an afternoon, and definite confirmation of how crazy Indians are about the sport; turning up to watch an AITO team play is keen.

Locals in Cochin take refuge from the sun and catch up for a chat

Locals in Cochin take refuge from the sun and catch up for a chat

Architecture, from palaces to fishing huts; food, with tastes that come at you from all angles; distinctive dance; arresting music; the views; and the people of Cochin’s approach to driving are all part of what made my snap-shot of India an incredible first-time experience. And the backwaters, stretching across a vast area behind Cochin, are an eye-opener after a few days in the city and not to be missed. Coming out of downtown, Chinese fishing net structures and palm trees form the skyline there while flitting kingfishers and fishermen, balancing on small wooden boats to pull in their nets, provide the action to both unwind and uplift the visitor. Rob Looker

Chaos and calmness on Cephalonia

Thursday, October 29th, 2009

Two-and-a-half years old and she wants to divorce her parents. “I don’t like my Daddy!’ she screams, face puce and feet planted on an uneven stone step overlooking the pastel-washed houses of Fiskardo. “I don’t need my Mummy!” The words feel like gunshots, but our provisional parenting licence (we’re novices) tells us we can’t crumple: show you’re wounded and they’ll think you surrender. In pink plimsolls, pink t-shirt and little white shorts, her big blue-grey eyes and golden curls peeping out from under a floppy blue hat that’s tied in a bow under her chin, she’s a pint-sized-cherub-turned-Exorcist-girl (minus the rotating head and green bile – so far).

Our 50-week-awaited, two-week-long Cephalonian summer holiday had promised to be worth every penny of our savings (just over £3,000): a stunning stone house in an olive grove with an entire valley and a small beach practically to itself; a private pool overlooking Ithaca; our own chickens and their daily eggs; a houseman on hand to clean (and who, on one occasion, held the back end of our hire car up with his bare hands, preventing it from toppling over a precipice while I took my time remembering how to find first); a hillside hamlet just up the road with a couple of really Greek tavernas and where we could find all sorts of inflatables and plastic beach bumph to keep the little lady happy.

But no. “I want to go back to London. I don’t like my holiday”. Admittedly she was getting over a bad throat infection, but we thought if we kept her plied with Calpol and ice cream, she’d see the benefits of being away. According to our miniature travel expert however, the beaches were too “stinty” (pebbly), despite the anti-stint shoes we went to great pains to find for her to toddle about in, in what were actually the most striking, practically deserted bays with cerulean, see-through water we’d ever seen.

The stunning pool at Hotel Emelisse on Cephalonia

The stunning pool at Hotel Emelisse on Cephalonia

All she wanted was to watch Winnie the Pooh, Chicken Run and Madagascar (in that order, over and over again) on the big telly in the sitting-room, and to make patterns with the pieces of the Connect 4 game we found in the cupboard. Seething with frustration, desperate to get our tans on the go, my husband and I sat with her, in silence gazing out of the windows at the green and blue, dazzlingly beautiful outside world, occasionally catching each other’s eye and trying to smile to belie the fact that our souls were under destruction.

By day five I was ready to go home. I even contemplated calling the Greek Islands Club (GIC) rep to find out about flights. I’d liked this lady, Anna, the minute I met her, which was on our first day: she arrived just as our delightful daughter finished having a poo on the terrace. I was mortified. She had (honestly) never done this before – I was having a (short-lived) attempt at potty training and just wasn’t being observant enough. As I ineptly scrubbed at the immaculately swept stone with washing-up liquid and kitchen roll, apologising profusely and assuring her that we were actually very clean, tidy people and would take excellent care of their property, Anna laughed and reassured me with stories of her own children’s embarrassing loo (or lack of) moments.

Anyway, I resisted the urge to call her, thinking that such capitulation on my part may well push my dear husband, so desperate to give his little family a fun holiday, over an edge that he was perilously teetering on. And amazingly, my resistance paid off. On day six, I nervously went into our daughter’s room to wake her up – preparing myself for the abrupt “Go way! I want stay in bed” we’d been greeted with every other morning – and she was sitting in her white sheets, grinning.

And from that moment on, either because she’d finally shrugged off the tail end of her illness, or because a pitying Greek fairy godmother had visited her in the night to perform a personality transplant, we had a relaxed, happy eight days of holiday. She started playing with other children on the beach, swimming in the sea, and even stopped worrying about the stints. We enjoyed early-evening dinners around Fiskardo’s buzzing harbour, and she ate her bodyweight in calamari, Greek salads, meatballs and spaghetti every night. She started sleeping like a log (or a twig, anyway) at night, napping on the beach wrapped in towels under an umbrella after lunch, and, most importantly, hugging us again.

An added bonus to our new-found holiday happiness was the discovery of the Emelisse Hotel, another GIC property recommended by a couple we met who also had small kids. A boutiquey design property, all serenity and contemporary style, we were utterly surprised it described itself as a ‘family hotel’. But despite the minimalism and mostly coupled clientele, it turned out to be the most child-friendly place (bar Center Parcs) I’d ever been to. The two enormous infinity pools, one cascading into the other, overlooked a breathtaking and expansive view over the calm sea and ‘Ifferker’ (as it became known) – the island whose majestic, mountainous dominance is inescapable in the area. One of the pools came up only as far as her chest, which meant hours of water-winged wading with bucket and spade; and the other had perfect steps for sitting on and colouring in with a watering can.

We stretched out on smart sun-beds, iPods on, ordering Diet Cokes, pretending to amazed onlookers that our daughter was always this easy with non-committal nonchalance. We lunched by the pool on tasty club sandwiches, smoked salmon-filled ciabatta, chips and fresh melon, while our angel, strapped into the latest funky high-chair provided by the hotel, smiled and said ‘efaristo’ to the accommodating waiters, desperate for one of her charming smiles.

Five days were spent in this delicious luxury, and although the pleasure cost us around 45 euros a time, we were just astonished, and incredibly thankful, that such an exceptionally cool hotel allowed children, and day-guests, in at all.

A picture perfect olive grove on Cephalonia

A picture perfect olive grove on Cephalonia

So in the end we had the best of both worlds, times two: the privacy of our own property and the facilities of a hotel; and the (eventual) joy of a family-friendly holiday without having to venture into happy-clappy Mark Warner-esque territory.

As we drove back to Argostoli airport, 90 minutes’ worth of winding and zig-zagging through the mountains, our little friend, after so many days of adorability, without warning took on her Regan-inspired traits again: shouting and kicking in her car-seat, and twisting her head violently (still not rotating though). We stared forward, ignoring her wails, determined we wouldn’t have this again. Then silence, and a repulsive smell. I looked around and she looked at me desperately, dolefully, covered chest to knees in white puke. The guilt! The shame of thinking so little of our girl, when all she was doing was being car-sick.

Thankfully, this came just at the popular viewpoint where you can pull in and marvel at Myrtos Beach (featured in Captain Corelli’s Mandolin). As we stripped her down in front of a coach-load of religious Greek tourists and their accompanying Orthodox priests, I gave thanks to God that we had her back for good. Mischa Mack stayed at Olive Grove, featured in GIC’s portfolio of properties. Mischa Mack.

Hot Destinations for 2010

Friday, October 23rd, 2009

Here’s a vision of 2010 vogue – predictions of the hottest travel destinations in the coming year, made by our most expert clients:

Brittany
Reasoning: Brittany is a fantastic destination for families due to its proximity to the UK and excellent beaches. The summer season during the last two years has been slow, resulting in a notable drop in property rental prices and making it excellent value for money in 2010. A resurgence for this charming region of France seems inevitable, blessed as it is with considerable nostalgic appeal.  (VFB Holidays*)

Nicaragua
Reasoning:
Nicaragua is set to be the next big Latin American destination du jour. Visitor numbers to the country have been increasing steadily in the last few years, and there are now ritzy hotels appearing. In June, the country’s first boutique hotel, the Contempo, opened complete with marble bathrooms and canopy beds; an all-suite beach hotel on Yankee Beach followed in September, boasting an infinity pool and spa. Still, neither place competes with the remote Corn Island for indulgent isolation. (Tailormade Explore*)

Yala National Park, Sri Lanka
Reasoning:
Yala is perhaps the world’s best place for leopard-spotting, but it’s been off the map for many travellers in the last decade due to the Civil War. However, the end of the conflict has seen Foreign Office warnings on the area softened, and so visits are once again possible for UK operators. Sri Lanka generally looks a great bet for 2010, as prices are really low after years of low tourist numbers. Get there before the hordes catch on…  (Real Holidays)

Praa Sands, Cornwall
Reasoning:
The village of Praa Sands, centred around an attractive, broad golden swathe, is said to enjoy the longest hours of sunshine in the UK. If that wasn’t enough, its consistent waves make it perfect for savvy surfers, yet is is nowhere near as well known as hotspots like Newquay. A couple of restaurants specialising in local seafood complete the wholesome taste of Cornwall’s south coast.  (Classic Cottages)

Papua New Guinea
Reasoning:
This autumn’s awesome Lost Land of the Volcano series on BBC1 has placed Papua New Guinea firmly on the radar of intrepid travellers planning their next adventure. And rightly so: this is the place to marvel at masked fire dances, test your mettle amid the dense jungle of the Baining Mountains, snorkel the azure blue waters of the Duke of York islands and camp by an active volcano, Tavurvur. With an experienced guide in tow, travel Ray Mears-style to one of Earth’s last truly untouched regions.  (Baobab Expeditions)

Bulgaria
Reasoning:
Perhaps better known as a busy Black Sea enclave, there’s a quieter side to Bulgaria just waiting to be discovered. Currently a very inexpensive destination, there’s never been a better time to explore Bulgaria’s impressive array of monuments, monasteries and museums, and beautiful, diverse landscapes. History buffs will be bowled over, too, by the tangible evidence of the many ancient civilisations that have left their mark on Bulgaria – including the Thracians, Greeks and Romans. (Voyages Jules Verne)

Bhutan
Reasoning:
Hidden in the Himalayas, Bhutan is eternally overshadowed by its powerful neighbours, India and China. It ought not to be: having been inaccessible for years, Bhutan boasts a unique, traditional Buddhist culture, as well as gorgeous scenery and rich biodiversity. A democracy since 2008, the ‘Land of the Thunder Dragon’ is now much easier to reach, although tourist numbers remain controlled. Smoking-ban stalwarts will love it though: Bhutan is the world’s only country to prohibit the sale of tobacco.  (The Traveller)

South-Eastern Sicily
Reasoning:
Most of Sicily’s very well-trodden in tourist terms, but much less so the island’s Baroque south-east. This is a region of long sandy beaches, river valleys, Greek heritage sites, sprawling farms and honey-coloured, crumbling towns that stay hot well into October. Whilst Taormina to the north – a great two-centre combination with south-eastern Sicily – has long been lauded, this more rustic corner of the island receives far fewer visitors… for the moment, anyway.  (Real Holidays)

Northern Peru
Reasoning:
Although less accessible than the south, Northern Peru is deeply intriguing – pre-Inca archaeological sites and cultural treasures are both abundant and still being discovered. Take the Tombs of Sipan: discovered largely intact in 1987, with many precious gold and ceramic artefacts. Other sites include the Huacas del Sol y Luna (adobe pyramids) and the amazing Gokta Falls, while pink dolphins even swim in this region’s section of the Amazon.
(Sunvil Traveller*)

Mirleft, Morocco
Reasoning:
Morocco’s always got a trendy new emerging destination, and The Best of Morocco suggests it’ll be Mirleft in 2010. An ancient, traditional village on the country’s southern Atlantic coast, it is an intimate world away from the rainy days and recessions of home, and a great place to relax and reflect. A Saturday morning camel market provides local colour, and daytime temperatures rarely drop below 22ºC.  

California by rail
Reasoning:
California’s picturesque railroads offer a fascinating way to see America’s Wild West, with giant redwoods, rugged coastlines and historic gold rush towns providing a unique holiday combination. The pristine wilderness of Yosemite and a ride on the renowned Skunk Train – so called because of its gas engine’s distinctive smell – never cease to impress. And an escorted tour with door-to-door transfers from home to airport and several meals included provides excellent value for money.  (Ffestiniog Travel*)

Kosterhavet, West Sweden
Reasoning:
Sweden’s first marine national park opened in autumn 2009, meaning 2010 represents the first opportunity to see this beautiful area in the height of summer. New experiences will be available, such as hands-on boat trips with a marine biologist to explore the life in the park.  Stay at Sydkoster Hotel Ekenas, located on the island of South Koster in the heart of the park, and just 45 minutes by ferry from Stromstad.

Beirut, Lebanon
Reasoning:
Whilst Lebanon’s popularity as an escorted tour destination has increased recently, it’s still a relatively undiscovered gem for the independent traveller. The fascinating history and beautiful coastline are reasons enough to visit its vibrant capital Beirut, but what’s less well-known is the emergence of quirky boutique-style residences – an appealing alternative to the anonymous chain-style hotels of old. Combine these with improvements in infrastructure, and now’s the perfect time to enjoy a Beirut break.  (Kirker Holidays*)

Isle of Youth, Cuba
Reasoning:
The Isle of Youth’s always been underestimated: a lack of gold lost Columbus’ interest, while Spanish conquistadors merely built a prison there in 1928, one that later housed Castro. Post-revolution, young Cubans (hence the name) cultivated the island, establishing the varied plantations that today provide many of Cuba’s fresh vegetables. And now tourists are arriving – in 2009, the  Hotel Colony was refurbished, making visits to the Isle’s perfect beaches, ecological zones, cave paintings and crocodile farms that much more attractive. (Captivating Cuba)

The Faroe Islands
Reasoning:
Nestling within the Gulf Stream in the North Atlantic, the unique and stunning Faroe Islands boast the highest sea cliffs in Europe, a virgin landscape unlike anywhere else on earth, and a unique culture and architectural heritage. As a tourist destination, the islands are little known, but with an increase in direct flights from London planned for 2010, that’s likely to change. (Sunvil Discovery*)

Tien Shan Mountains, Kyrgyzstan
Reasoning:
After the success of its Mt Damavand hike in Iran, new in 2009, adventure specialist Explore is introducing another Kilimanjaro alternative in another unheralded walking destination. The Tien Shan Trek follows nomadic routes across remote mountains, travelling through blue fir and juniper forests, red sandstone canyons and alpine flatlands. There’s wild camping en route, and the shepherds you meet will offer a glasses of kumyz (fermented mare’s milk) to those lacking pep.
*This company is a member of the Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO): 140 independent and specialist travel companies providing an unrivalled collection of holiday ideas that cover every corner of the world. Consumers booking with AITO are assured of 100% financial security, high-quality holidays and excellent personal service.