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Archive for February, 2010

Redheads and fish and chips – why I felt at home in Barga

Monday, February 22nd, 2010

Barga, a beguiling 10th century hilltop town, sits on the edge of Tuscany’s Garfagnana region, nestled beneath the towering peaks of the Apuan Alps and the Apennines. It’s a champion of ‘slow food’ – think locally grown porcini mushrooms, pecorino cheeses, sublime chestnut-inspired desserts, indulgent black truffles and leisurely lunches – but it sticks in my mind for an entirely different reason. Walking the sleepy, cobbled backstreets of this medieval town, I remember noticing a disproportionate number of fellow redheads. On further investigation, it would seem that Barga has very close ties with somewhere much closer to home…West Scotland to be precise. This Tuscan gem has a Scottish legacy that dates back to the 19th century when many of its inhabitants migrated to Scotland to escape poverty, often opening up ice cream and fish and chip shops. Nowadays, the flow of people has reversed and the town is home to a number of Scots. Barga even celebrates its strong ties with Scotland with La Sagra Del Pesce e Patate - the Fish ‘n’ Chip Festival which is held every August. Paisley singer-songwriter Paolo Nutini is also rumoured to appear at this sleepy town’s modest annual jazz festival – now I know why. Sarah Belcher

Pancakes - how does everyone else do them?

Tuesday, February 16th, 2010

As Pancake Day only comes around once a year you can just about be forgiven for not diverging from the typical British pancake - topped with a dash of lemon juice, sprinkled with sugar and drizzled in golden syrup.  Should you fancy mixing it up a bit this year, however, I’ve compiled some bizarre pancake ideas from around the globe:

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Vietnam
Banh Xeo – meaning “sizzling cake”, these savoury pancakes are stuffed with slivers of fatty pork, shrimp,and bean sprouts, and then pan fried. They’re then stuffed with mint leaves, basil and other herbs,wrapped in mustard and lettuce leaves, and finally dipped in a fish sauce. 

Sweden
Raggmunk - this is a savoury potato pancake fried in butter and served with thick slices of fried pork or bacon and lingonberries, no less.  The more crispy and buttery the pancake is around the edges, the better it apparently tastes.
pancake2

Japan
Dorayaki - a sweet pancake filled with red bean paste.  In Japanese, dora means “gong” and legend has it that the first Dorayaki were made when a samurai named Benkei forgot his gong  upon leaving a farmer’s home where he was hiding.  The farmer subsequently used the gong to fry the pancakes.

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Thailand
Roti Gaeng Karee - this is a crispy pancake done Muslim-style, served with coconut-milk based curry and spices.  If you like ‘em savoury, this one’s for you!

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Korea
Pajeon and Bindaetteok - we don’t know much about these, other than they’re made with seafood, chilli paste, and lots of vegetables.  Possibly the healthiest pancake ever?

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India
Dosa - made from rice and black lentils and traditionally from southern India, these thin crispy pancakes can be served with anything from chutney, Indian pickle, chicken, mutton or fish curry, depending on the region and taste. 

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Better than all of these, though, is Russia - where, thanks to Maslenitsa, I can enjoy pancakes for a whole week, guilt-free… 

Pancake Poll
We’ve also conducted our own pancake survey here at Travel PR Towers.  It seems we’re a boring bunch. While the classic (and still fairly brilliant I would say) lemon and sugar combo won whisks-down, only a handful were brave enough to choose another topping…

pancake6

Camilla Colley

Who says the Travel PR team isn’t a bunch of old softies?

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

As another eagerly-anticipated (?!) Valentine’s Day approaches, love has certainly been in the air at our St Margaret’s offices. So, whether you’re the type to need a reinforced letterbox for all those cards and presents this weekend – or are more likely to be found browsing microwave meals for one in Waitrose (sob) – we hope the following personal anecdotes warm the cockles of your heart. Names withheld to spare our blushes…

Where’s the most romantic place you’ve ever been?

• “Watching the sunset over the Tuscan hills and the red tile roofs of Florence from the top of the Duomo. Breathtaking, just like the stairs”

• “The 16th floor Gaja Sky Bar at the Swissotel, Istanbul, sipping cocktails while overlooking the Bosphorus. Bliss.”

• “As new (ish) parents…sheltering together in the pouring rain under a kagool, eating chocolate biscuits on the deck of the Isle of Wight car ferry to Cowes for our first weekend without the kids. As we huddled under the plastic, the storm passed over, a beautiful bright light cast over the water and seagulls swooped down to eat the biscuit crumbs.”

• “Enjoying the soft air, sweet spicy smells and exotic sounds of the busy Jamaa El Fna Square as we gazed down from the haven of our Marrakech riad rooftop cafe.”

• “Wintertime in the Blue Lagoon in Iceland. It’s at its most romantic at night, the stars twinkle overhead, the temperature is a few below zero, snow is falling and the steam envelopes everyone and everything. Its milky blue waters gently lap in the breeze and soothes tired limbs - it feels like your own private oasis. Hard to beat for an unforgettable experience.”

• “On a trek in Nepal, just outside Kathmandu, emerging from thick cloud to see the smoke rising from a beautiful Tibetan monastery - set against a snowy high mountain backdrop, with birds of prey circling languidly overhead and the distant sound of Buddhist drums. As we staggered breathless up to the monastery, there were hundreds of coloured prayer flags fluttering in the wind, a line of prayer wheels and then the wonderful bright orange robes and happy smiling faces of the monks.”

• “In London, you can dine at all the rooftop restaurants, cross all the bridges and stroll all the parks you want – but I’d dispute that any of those experiences comes close to matching the magic of a day on Hampstead Heath with your partner.  The ideal scenario is this: choose a hot day and arrive during the peak of the heat.  Dip in the mixed pool, then amble, arm-in-arm, up to higher ground for a lavish picnic overlooking London’s cranes, spokes and spires.  After the pickled onions and prosciutto are all gone, bring out a blanket, and cuddle down as the sun slips away.   A nice bottle of wine doesn’t go amiss, either.” (Nor breath mints, presumably, after this particular love picnic?!)

• “It’s cheesy I know, but my best Valentine’s day was spent in picture perfect Paris. A morning spent at the magnificent Musée D’Orsay, an afternoon spent strolling hand-in-hand along the Seine with no agenda, and an evening at a gorgeous little bistro in bustling St Germain de Prés. For me, Paris remains one of the most romantic cities in the world – its charming pavement cafés, picturesque cityscape, fantastic museums and indulgent food are still a winning combination when it comes to wooing your loved one.”

• “Catching the last little boat back from Bryher to St Mary’s on the Isles of Scilly after a magical day of autumn sunshine, spent meandering around the island and enjoying a delicious lunch of freshly-caught shellfish, washed down will a chilled glass of sauvignon blanc. I can honestly say I’ve never felt so relaxed and at peace. The seals we saw from our dinky vessel seemed to be enjoying the occasion too!”.

• “For me, it has to be Amed, a collection of small villages on the north east coast of Bali that’s so off-the-beaten track, I doubt we would have ever found it without the freedom and flexibility of a scooter. Dependent on salt-making and fishing rather than tourism, we woke every morning at sunrise to find the calm, big blue bay (no Kuta waves here) filled with hundreds of colourful sails as the double-outrigger fishing boats gliding back to shore with their catch. Silent and sublime.”

• “Lit each night by hundreds of hand-dipped candles, for breathtaking romance, it has to be the Hotel Casa Santo Domingo in Antigua, the old colonial capital of Guatemala. Dramatically overlooked by the brooding cones of three volcanoes, the former Dominican convent and church is an absolute delight. I burst into tears when we were shown our room – it was so lovely and individually designed, filled with lots of local touches. The perfect place to propose would be over dinner amidst the ruins of the old stone walls – very private and romantic, lit by candlelight but in the open air. You can also get married in the main church of the hotel – a good reason to return!”

• “Being rudely awoken at four in the morning by the honking and shouting of an impatient tuk tuk driver may not seem like it would signal the start of a romantic sojourn but Cambodia is full of surprises! Bouncing up and down along winding roads in complete darkness I wondered if I was mad, but all doubt dispersed when we arrived at Angkor Wat, the best-preserved temple at this awe-inspiring 12th century complex. We made our way to the ponds in front of the temple and took position for the sun rise, the sky turned from inky black to purple, pink then orange - particularly beautiful was the reflection of the temple in the water by my feet.”

Drink in some of the best views around the world

Monday, February 8th, 2010

The Endeavour shuttle blasted off yesterday affording astronauts a 360° view around the International Space Station. While tour operators don’t offer trips to the moon (yet), we spoke to some AITO members that offer the best observation decks and amazing 360° vistas around the world, here are their selections.

GRAND CANYON SKYWALK - £1,895pp + £695 flights for 15 day Rockies/Grand Canyon tour
Small group hiking around the Grand Canyon and camping in the depths of this awe-inspiring gorge. This tour covers hikes in Yellowstone national parks, to wilderness lakes and world-famous geysers and in the Rocky Mountains, as well as camping out with the Navajo in Monument Valley. Price includes accommodation. Call AITO member KE Adventure Travel on 017687 73966 (www.keadventure.com)

 

 

DACHSTEIN SKY WALK- £745 for 12 day self-guided Dachstein Hiking tour excluding flights
This hiking tour takes in dozens of Alpine peaks over 2,500 metres and alternates lakeside town hotels with nights spent high in the mountains in comfortable Alpine lodges. Visit this spectacular viewing platform, made partly from glass, with amazing views from its 2,700 metre breathtaking outlook. Tours run daily from July-September with AITO member Walks Worldwide on 0845 3014737. Price includes B&B accommodation, boat and cable car costs, maps and route notes. Minimum 2 people. www.walksworldwide.com.

 

 

AUCKLAND’S 328-METRE SKY TOWER - 21 day New Zealand trip excluding flights for £982pp
Buy a 21-day ‘off-season’ self-drive ‘Pure and Simple’ holiday to New Zealand for £982 pp (excluding flights). Take in the view from the glass-floored viewing platform, on a comprehensive visit around the stunning North and South Islands. The trip includes the beaches of the north, the thermal area of Rotorua, the rugged west coast, the Southern Lakes and Alps. Price includes accommodation and car hire. Valid from April to October with AITO member Discover the World on 01737 218800. (www.discover-the-world.co.uk)

 

 

MOUNT RORAIMA, VENEZUELA - 16 nights from £3,840 including flights
See this 2,810-metre mountain with a 31-km summit area on the Gran Sabana leg of the 16 night ‘Highlights of Venezuela’ tour. Exploring one of Venezuela’s most unusual and surreal regions, you can look down over the 55-metre high free-falling falls at Salto Kama Meru, travel by canoe to the 110-km high Chinak Meru falls and visit viewpoints for Mount Roraima, Venezuela’s most famous ‘tepuy’ which inspired Arthur Conan Doyle’s novel, ‘The Lost World’. Call AITO member Sunvil Traveller – Real Latin America on 0208 758 4774 (www.sunvil.co.uk)

 

 

AURLAND LOOKOUT, NORWAY - £2,175pp including flights for 12 night self-drive tour
The 14-night ‘Best of the Fjords’ self-drive holiday gives a wonderful taste of Norway’s’ spectacular fjords, glaciers and mountain scenery. It also features some of Norway’s finest hotels. Don’t miss a drive on your journey between Lofthus and Balestrand up to the stunning Aurland lookout perched 2,000 ft above the fjords. Departures from 15 May – 15 Sept with AITO member Specialised Tours on 01342 712785. Price includes flights, accommodation and car hire. (www.specialisedtours.com)

 

 

ANCIENT MACHU PICCHU, PERU - £3,264 including flights for 14 nights
The 14-night Chasqui Tour combines the colonial city of Arequipa, crossing dizzyingly high passes to enter Colca Canyon, Lake Titicaca and a train ride to Cusco. A highlight of the tour is the trek along the Inca Trail to ancient Machu Picchu. Price includes tour guide, flights and accommodation. 0208 762 0616. www.veloso.com.

 

 

IGUAZU FALLS - £1788 pp for 7 nights including flights on Golondrina Getaway Journey
New for 2010 is the 7-night trip to Brazil and Argentina offering the chance to wander the walkways among the thundering Iguazú Falls, gaze down on Rio from the statue of Christ the Redeemer atop the Corcovado mountain, take the cable car up Sugarloaf mountain and explore Buenos Aires. Price from £1,728 pp includes ex-UK and local flights and seven night’s B&B accommodation. Call AITO member Journey Latin America on 0208 747 8315. (www.journeylatinamerica.co.uk)

 

 

TABLE MOUNTAIN, CAPE TOWN - from £600 excluding flights for a week
If you’re after one of the most stunning views in Africa, look no further than the city of Cape Town. Take the cable car to the top of Table Mountain, taking in a 360 degree view of the city or climb up by foot. Wake up surrounded by stunning views from a choice of boutique hotels, villas and apartments situated on its slopes. Prices from £600 for a week, excluding flights. Call AITO member Fleewinter on 0207 112 0019 (www.fleewinter.co.uk)

 

 

TREKS AND TREASURES, IRAN - £1,640 pp + £400 flight for 14 day tour
This tour combines a 7-8 day trek reaching a highpoint of 3300m in the Zagros mountains, with visits to Shiraz, Isfahan, Persepolis and other sights of old Persia. The trek includes meeting the nomadic people of the Qashqai tribes, visiting picturesque settlements and passing close to the Dena peak, one of the highest in the Zagros range. Call AITO member High Places on 0845 257 7500. (www.highplaces.co.uk)

 

 

THE ICONIC MOUNT FUJI - £1,970 for 14 nights excluding flights
The 14 night ‘Mt. Fuji, Kyoto and the Japanese Alps’ tour moves from buzzing Tokyo to Kawaguchiko, one of the scenic Fuji Five Lakes and from where, in summer, you can arrange a day climb up the 3776m high dormant volcano. Continuing to Kyoto via Matsumoto, there is a breathtaking drive along dramatic gorges to Kamikochi and a visit to the historic town of Takayama. Call AITO member Inside Japan on 0117 314 4620. (www.insidejapantours.com)

 

Who’s a pretty polly?

Monday, February 1st, 2010

Mark Carwardine, the wildlife presenter, amused the audience at last year’s Paul Morrison Guide of the Year Awards, run by Wanderlust magazine, at the Royal Geographical Society. He courageously sat on stage with interviewer Derek Moore (AITO’s Chairman/Founder Director of Explore) while a clip of a parrot trying to mate with his head appeared on the (very big) screen above him. The parrot had taken a fancy to Mr Carwardine while he was filming a BBC “Last Chance to See” series with Stephen Fry.

Now we learn, courtesy of The Daily Telegraph, that New Zealand has appointed the kakapo, a rare parrot just back from the brink of extinction, as its ‘spokesbird for conservation’. What a hoot! (Or should it be what a squawk?)