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Archive for June, 2009

Kate’s great, say Regaldive clients

Tuesday, June 30th, 2009

Kate Humble tops poll of dream dive buddies – as Amy Winehouse falls short. BBC presenter and oceanic adventurer Kate Humble has been crowned the dream dive buddy of Regaldive clients.

In a survey conducted by the dive specialist, Kate just edged out diving legend and underwater experimenter Jacques Cousteau, with renowned scuba figurehead Monty Halls having to make do with the bronze medal. Below, a Humble Pie Chart demonstrates the results.

Asked why they considered Kate to be great, some Regaldive voters admitted they fancied her rotten. Others delivered a more logical rationale: they felt Kate would provide valuable diving tips, being such an experienced marine explorer.

Following the results, Kate Humble commented, “Oh my goodness. If I was Kate Winslet I’d be sobbing and thanking my mum! I’m absolutely delighted to be voted dream dive buddy by the clients of Regaldive. It is a huge honour, particularly in the face of such stiff competition. Happy diving to all of you and who knows? Maybe we will get to mess about underwater someday soon.”

Humble Pie Chart

Humble Pie Chart

Tried to make me go to Dahab?
Among the runners-up were a few surprise entries. Amy Winehouse was nominated by divers for her ability to make them laugh, while Gordon Brown for rather mischievous reasons. On the 40th anniversary of his Apollo space mission landing on the moon, Buzz Aldrin received an unlikely vote from a fan who noted “Like most boys, I grew up wanting to be an astronaut.. diving is as close to exploring a strange place like the Moon as I’ll ever get”.

“Could you imagine trying to listen to her underwater” was the slightly cruel logic of another scuba fanatic in nominating Janet Street Porter.

Finally, special mention must go to a Bill Bailey supporter who, not content with simply nominating the comic, dreamed up his potential underwater witticisms: “Suggested communications would be: ‘Shark!’ ‘Is it me or is it getting warmer in this wet suit?’ ‘Ah look, a pretty little Angel fish’”

Regaldive provided voters with a choice of celebrities known to like diving, but also accepted additional nominations.

For further information, call Regaldive on 01353 659 999 or log onto the new website: www.regaldive.co.uk. Richard Mellor.

Hurricane season - the experts speak

Tuesday, June 30th, 2009

The hurricane season is a bit like a letter from the nasty chap at HMRC - you know that each year it’s inevitable that it will show up but there isn’t much you can do about it. Catchy names for the 2009 season include Gonzalo, Isaias and Paulette while Gustav, Ike and Paloma, all the rage in 2008, are out of the rotating list for the foreseeable future. NASA has even got in on the hurricane act with a particularly nice graphic of the 2008 season set to a nice island beat. http://www.nasa.gov/mission_pages/hurricanes/archives/2009/2008_video.html

We’ve asked some clients who are experts on the region for their thoughts on hurricanes and what it means to them:

Paul Bondsfield, PR Manager at Explore:

“Official figures suggest that the numbers and intensities of hurricanes have decreased (sharply in some areas) over the past 150 years – so hurricane season in the Caribbean is perhaps not as big a problem as common perception has it.

“Most of our itineraries in Central America that are in the ‘hurricane zone’ (Mexico, Belize, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica and, to a lesser extent, Panama) spend more time inland than they do by the coast, so if a hurricane does hit, our itineraries are often unaffected or need only small changes. Once a hurricane hits land it quickly looses strength and becomes a storm.

“The exceptions are Cuba and the Windward Isles, where hurricanes will rage across the islands and are not dissipated by the land. We only operate one tour to the Windward Isles during the hurricane season and this is in July (the peak of the hurricane season tends to be in September), so it’s not normally affected. If a hurricane did hit during the tour, we would follow local evacuation procedures or keep the group in the hotel until the storm had passed.

“Sometimes the authorities will shut a place down – e.g. Havana – and then our groups may have to spend a few days there while the storm passes. If this is the case then we make the best of it, and a kind of ‘wartime’ atmosphere can develop, with everyone helping each other out. In the past we have also upgraded our groups to a higher standard hotel with more facilities to keep them occupied while the hurricane passes.

“Our local agents and Explore have years of experience in dealing with hurricanes, which is why we are happy to operate tours during hurricane season. Group safety is our top priority: we closely monitor the hurricane warning websites and FCO advice, while also doing our best to ensure minimal disruption to itineraries. That said, sometimes a change of itinerary can lead to ‘unexpected adventures’, which turn out to be the most memorable bit of the holiday!”

Steve Diederich, MD at Captivating Cuba:
“Hurricane Season in Cuba is June to October, although tropical storms continue into November. Cuba in general is rarely affected by Caribbean hurricanes and tropical storms, as they generally pass by the island – Hurricane Ike being an unfortunate exception last year. On the occasions when hurricanes do strike, Cuba is far and away the most prepared Caribbean country: it mass-mobilises its army, and quickly transfers those in affected areas to incredibly-nice bunkers, complete with catering, schools, the usual high level of Cuban healthcare, and other facilities. This is typical Cuba: a sleepy, dreamy, timelost paradise in many ways, but wonderfully efficient in many others.”

“November’s the start of high-season, so if you wanted to risk inclement weather in the interest of a better price and fewer tourists, early to mid October is the time to visit.”

Lloyd Boutcher, Director of Sunvil Traveller’s “real Latin America” range:
“We warn all our clients about the hazards of the hurricane season, although patterns have become much less predictable, which makes it far trickier. We have local agents spread across the whole country who feed back any relevant information. If necessary we will take the precaution of moving clients to the interior in the case of an advancing hurricane which mainly strikes the coastal resorts. If it does strike, then we will have people on the ground immediately to deal with the situation. If deemed necessary, a senior member of Sunvil’s management team will fly out to assist the operation.”

Derek Moore, AITO Chairman, says:
“Hurricanes are a fact of life in the Caribbean and it makes sense to take precautions when travelling to the region. The best advice I can offer is to ensure you have booked with a reputable tour operator or travel agent, should you encounter a hurricane during your holiday then it’s the responsibility of the tour operator to sort out your arrangements. That could be getting you home on another airline, moving hotels or adding additional dates – if you booked independently then you could be tossed out of your hotel should they decide to close or if you’re unable to get to the airport for your flight you could find yourself having to rebook another flight at your own expense. There are some great deals to be had in the Caribbean at the moment with tour operators so don’t be put off by hurricanes, just be sensible when booking your holiday.” Ian Bradley.

Jane, Stanley and John – plus a whole tribe of chimpanzees

Monday, June 29th, 2009

To London Zoo (or the Zoological Society of London, as they seem to prefer), for a talk by one of the world’s most famous primatologists, Dr Jane Goodall, DBE.  2010 will be the 50th anniversary of her ground-breaking research into chimpanzee behaviour - our closest cousins in terms of DNA.

She now spends a lot of her life travelling to spread the word about caring for our planet, its peoples and its many varieties of wildlife.  A main project is Roots and Shoots (www.rootsnshoots.org.uk) and its aims are commendable.

Stanley Johnson, father of Boris, was on fine form as he compered the Q&A session, as was the BBC’s John Simpson - both trustees of the Jane Goodall Institute.  Simpson admitted to having fallen in love with Dr Goodall when he read the first article on her work many years ago.  He carried the cutting, from the Sunday Times magazine, in his wallet for many years.

Dr Goodall’s talk and her ready fund of tales about her surrogate family were hugely inspirational and left many of the audience visibly moved.  We were but 150 strong (the previous day, Dr Goodall had addressed 20,000 Rotarians in Birmingham) and were privileged to be able to speak to Dr Goodall individually, and to have our photographs taken with her.

Baobab Expeditions (www.baobabexpeditions.com) supports the Jane Goodall Institute (www.janegoodall.org) as part of its commitment to conservation work and has an exciting trip organised to visit Gombe, Tanzania, to see at first hand Jane Goodall’s work and to meet her chimpanzee companions.  Scheduled for October 2009, I’d better get saving! Sue Ockwell.

Tennis tattle

Thursday, June 25th, 2009

Every year during Wimbledon , the British dust off their tennis rackets and the public courts start filling up with people eager to have a bash about. On day three of Wimbledon, only two British players are still in the main draw singles - Andy Murray and Elena Baltacha – from an initial entry of 11. As an ex-tennis professional myself, I am fully aware of the immense pressure that surrounds the British players during Wimbledon as huge expectations are put on them by the media and the general public who are desperate for a home-grown champion. So how are the Brits doing on the world stage? While Andy Murray’s burgeoning career provides a much-needed boost to British tennis, particularly with Greg and Tim now retired, there is no one else likely to make the top 100 on the men’s side in the near future. One of the top male players – Alex Bogdanovic – who received his eight straight wild card into Wimbledon this year and lost in the first round for the eighth time running, admitted himself that he didn’t deserve another chance. And whilst the British ladies have performed disappointingly in this year’s singles main draw, with the exception of the gutsy Baltacha, some of the top-ranked women have had a successful year with the British number one Anne Keothavong having risen to an impressive 51 in the women’s rankings over the last few months. We also have a fantastic prospect in Laura Robson, who at 15-years old is the current holder of the Wimbledon girls’ singles title and definitely one to watch in the next couple of years. It was also encouraging to see an impressive women’s doubles display on centre court last night between two talented British pairings – Laura Robson/Georgie Stoop versus Jade Curtis/Anna Smith – with Robson/Stoop winning 13/11 in the final set, but Curtis and Smith showing immense promise. Julia Farish

10 lesser-known travel websites

Thursday, June 18th, 2009

Steering clear of the TripAdvisors, Expedias and WAYNs of this world, I’ve made a list of ten great, but lesser-known travel websites.  Not that I don’t get out much during my lunchbreak…

(This is not an exercise to plug our own clients this time - although many of them have stellar sites - that’s for another day)

1. Raveable – The travel equivalent of a ubiquitous web trend: a website which aggregates aggregators.  Raveable takes reviews from TripAdvisor, MyTravelGuide and individual bloggers, correlates them all, and calculates an overall ranking for the hotel or destination in question.  In other words, rankings on Raveable are about as trustworthy as they come. Jeremy Head has also just blogged about Nextstop, another ‘review’-type website relying on User-Generated Content (and raised an interesting issue about copyright).  Nextstop is in its infancy, so lots of searches will be fruitless, but it’s a very well laid-out and functional website, and cleverly attuned to Facebook.

2. Schmap – Maps are arguably the the fastest-developing area of travel websites (Guardian.co.uk/travel uses them brilliantly in its Interactive section) and Schmap is right at the forefront of this.  It’s a little cumbersome, but that’s forgivable when you see the depth of its offerings: a unique digital paella of maps, photos and place reviews covering a fast-increasing range of destinations (currently 200). These guides can, of course, be downloaded to iPhones and Nokia handsets, for use while travelling.  Similar cartographical cleverness is on display at Holiday Maps, which lets you create a personalised Google Map featuring places and locations you intend to visit.

3. Seatguru – This one’s been around a while, but it’s still strangely under-used despite TripAdvisor ownership.  Seatguru carries plans of the aircraft of most major airlines and ranks the seats, so you can ensure you’re booking a decent spot on the plane.  Seatplans.com performs the same service and boasts some extra airlines (e.g. Air Namibia) but Seatguru triumphs with its extra detail: outlining each aircraft’s ‘poor seats’, ‘power points’ and much more. A hotel-room version of this service is performed to some success by Tripkick.com.

4. FlightStats – Is your plane likely to leave on time?  Will the loved-one you’ve so badly missed be arriving when promised?  FlightStats is a good place to garner preliminary information – per airport it offers an average delay, and has live departure boards.  Not all airports yet feature (London City doesn’t, for example), but there’s a wealth of good information, and you could well save yourself a few hours slumped in a terminal lounge.

5. PetrolPrices.com – Anyone who’s spent five minutes or more with a regular driver will have detected a deranged obsession with petrol prices; namely with tracking down the cheapest possible unleaded or diesel in town. PetrolPrices is their online heaven: join (for free) and you can tap in your postcode, or that of your destination, and find the where kerosene’s locally available for the fewest pennies per gallon.  The best-priced breakdown cover and parking is also covered (for car rental, try VroomVroomVroom). This site is something of a secret, but possibly not for long: type ‘Petrol’ into a search engine and it’ll come out top of the pops every time. 

6. TravelEtiquette.co.uk – Remember that HSBC advert where the man leaves chrysanthemums outside his Italian love interest’s door, only in Italy chrysanthemums are associated with death, so everyone thinks she’s dead, so everyone buys more chrysanthemums to put outside the door, except she isn’t dead…?  We’ve all been there, haven’t we?  Banking with HSBC is one solution to such perils, but TravelEtiquette is another.  If you’re unsure about putting elbows on a table, draining a bowl of eels or making ambiguous finger gestures, this online resource should put you right.

7.  Fotolia.co.uk – Holidays needn’t solely fill up the ‘outgoing’ column of your bank statement, you know.  If you’re an avid, and reasonably decent, snapper, try selling your photographs post-trip to Fotolia, an online agency.  It’s better than just banging them on Facebook or boring the grandkids, isn’t it?  Other such agencies include 123RF and Picture Nation.  If you’re still keener to make money from your getaway, start writing reviews for QYPE, for which you earn points – 1,000 of which qualify you for a bag of treats.

8. Extravigator – “Oh please darling, I’ve simply had enough of all these ‘websites for the people’.  They’re all so dreadfully common. Can’t we take Marmaduke, Montgomery, Tuppy, Duppy and Dippy orf somewhere without having to consult the hoi polloi?” “Why yes, dear dandelion – those in high society like us can use Extravigator, an internet travel site for the posh.  It’s full of ruddy marvellous information, such as a list of the hotels with the best toiletries, and a round-up of Manhattan spas. Mountjoy-Fanshawe told me about it during our Park Lane pub crawl last week.”

9. The Jaded Traveller – As a travel PR, I probably should deny all knowledge of this site.  But it does make me titter, casting a cynical eye over the travel media world as it does.  The clichés section scores an especially direct hit – how many of us, journalists, tourist boards and PRs alike, have labelled a market ‘vibrant or bustling’, or described a remote property as an ‘oasis of calm’?  Nearly all, I’d think.  If you don’t mind having a giggle at your own expense, The Jaded Traveller’s well worth a quick browse.

10. Bing – The latest, and easily best, search engine offering so far from Microsoft, Bing is after a slice of Google’s pie.  That’s all very well, you say, and thanks for letting me know, but why the hell have you included it on a list of travel sites?  Well, say I, Bing qualifies for the simple reason that, every day, its gorgeous UK homepage has a gorgeous picture of a gorgeous location (often an oasis of calm or a vibrant, bustling market).  The same is true of the American version but with two crucial differences: one, the US page has a different daily picture, and two, it tells you the location of the image, with thumbnails adding extra info.  Here in the UK, our Bing site’s still in Beta (i.e. launch) mode, so there are no such explanations.  Meaning you probably won’t know where on Earth the gorgeous place is.  Meaning it’s bloody frustrating.  But still gorgeous…  Richard Mellor

Is the recession over for travel companies?

Wednesday, June 17th, 2009

Overseas holiday bookings, like any industry, suffered at the hands of this recession – the Euro struggled and jobs were endangered, leaving little scope for a summer holiday booking.  But recent stories quote analysts as saying that Britain may already be slowly clawing its way out of the recession; that the nadir may have passed.  At the ITT Conference last week, John Walker, chairman of Oxford Economics, predicted the recession would end at the conclusion of 2009.  The pound has even hit a 2009 high against the Euro. But is the recession showing signs of ending for travel companies?:

Sunvil Holidays’ Operations Director, Chris Wright, comments:  “The recession may not be over quite yet, but people are certainly starting to think “I still have a job, I still have money… and I need a holiday.”

AITO Specialist Travel Agents’ Chairman, Barry Moxley: “It’s not over – but we are seeing signs that make us optimistic. People are still cautious and will remain so for the foreseeable future. However, queries are holding steady, footfall through the door is encouraging, operators are keen to provide sales & marketing support, and confidence is slowly returning.” AITO Specialist Travel Agents, a collection of 150 leading, independent travel agents, met in Gdansk from 11-14 June for their annual Conference. Barry was speaking from there.

Chairman of AITO, Derek Moore: “AITO are realists, and believe that, although things are improving, it’s going to take time.  That said, travel companies are in a strong position when the economy strengthens, more holidays will be the primary purchase – ahead of a new car, or new kitchen, because people will want to treat themselves and forget these dark days.”

Clive Stacey, Managing Director of Discover The World, comments: “Until recently we were seeing passengers booking much later than previous years.  But now we are seeing longer-term bookings pick up substantially, especially for next winter, as well as summer and autumn 2010.  These are in respect of weekends to Swedish Lapland (and the Icehotel) and school trips to Iceland. People seem far be far more upbeat about the future.”

IS JUNE THE NEW JANUARY?

With the recession possibly ending and deals aplenty to be had – offered by accommodation-providers and airlines keen to fill their summer space – June seems like the time to book your summer holiday.  It’s less brinkmanship than common sense.  So is the lates-market delivering as hoped?  And If June is the new holiday-booking hotbed, will it again be so next year?  Or will providers react with less last-minute deals, and greater patience?  Here are operators’ views on this year’s June market, and its long-term future:

Kirker Holidays reports that June sales are currently encouraging, with continued high demand for ‘last-minute’ holidays, booked within four to six weeks of departure. Ted Wake, Director of Sales & Marketing, says: “Kirker remains cautiously optimistic about its 2009 results, based on booking patterns to date. Whilst discerning clients are making their holiday decisions later than ever this year, we are finding that the array of special offers available – combined with added value elements, such as room upgrades and complimentary meals, that our reservations team can often secure at the time of booking – place Kirker in a strong position for a successful summer. We firmly believe that a Kirker short break should be an essential part of everyone’s 2009 recovery plan.” 

Explore’s Product Director, Peter Crane, comments: “We have seen a late booking trend for several weeks now, and with over 150 tours in Europe departing this summer, we’re expecting this trend to intensify over the next few weeks, as the July / August / September Europe peak approaches. Many regions, including the Middle East, Turkey, Thailand and Indochina, are up on June last year.  Europe in particular is booking late this year, especially non-Eurozone countries like Norway, Croatia, Montenegro and Albania. Late sales for Greece are coming in strongly now, possibly because Turkey has been popular and many peak date tours (and flights) are now fully booked.

“Customers have been reducing their booking lead times consistently for several years. This year the trend has intensified, but with many operators now reducing the number of holidays they’re selling there may well be a reaction next year – to book the trip you want on the date you want it may pay to book earlier.  Explore tours operate all year round, so although we’ve seen a trend in recent years for customers to book later it’s not specifically a May or June late booking peak.  We believe the internet offers the customer much greater transparency and certainty: itineraries, dates, prices and availability are all updated in real-time, and it’s easy than ever to shop around for the best itinerary and price. Fewer customers now are browsing holiday brochures in January: many feel confident to wait.”

Chris Wright, Operations Director at Sunvil Holidays, comments: “Although January was very quiet, February recovered to normal booking levels.  The peak season family market seems to have been delayed, but bookings are now coming through strongly.  The late market is very strong and prices are holding up.  People are often shocked when they call as they are expecting availability to be wide open and often they can’t get what they want.  We are seeing a recovery in Eurozone destinations, helped by the strengthening of the pound against the Euro.”

At Real Holidays, Managing Director Philip Davies says: “Before 9/11, there were very concrete British booking cycles for family holidays: a big boom of January bookings, and then a second strong wave in May.  Ever since then the pattern has changed, and this year due to the recession and declining Euro, we’ve seen more late bookings than ever before.  I see this trend of June bookings continuing next year; and where staff were once forbidden holidays in January, we may prohibit June breaks in 2010!  It will be interesting, however, to see how property owners and accommodation providers react to all of this last-minute business – quite feasibly next year there will be a lot less resorting to special offers if they haven’t received summer bookings by the end of May, as they’ll now anticipate this June boom.” Richard Mellor.

Gdansk - worth going?

Tuesday, June 16th, 2009

On the Baltic coast, the city of Gdansk - founded in 997 AD - is preparing to celebrate the twentieth anniversary of Solidarity’s battle for basic rights for the workers, which a lot of us will remember from TV reports of striking dock workers at the time. The momentous happenings signalled the end of communism in Europe. A huge image of a youthful Lech Walesa, looking a bit like Che Guevara, is projected on to one of the big office blocks in readiness for the celebrations on 4th July.

Gdansk is another Polish city that was reduced to piles of rubble post war - but, so skillful were the craftsmen who rebuilt it as it was, you’d never guess that the buildings were relatively new. They seem to have the authentic patina of age - faded paintwork, Flemish-style gables and extraordinary drainage systems from their five-storey-high roofs which culminate in gargoyle-like stone mouths at street level.

Gdansk is the capital of amber and we learnt that authentic amber floats in brackish water (10 per cent salt, 90 per cent water - the same as the tideless Baltic Sea) while imitation amber sinks.  Good shops will have a tank of water for test purposes and will supply a certificate of authenticity. One of Gdansk’s red-brick churches, dating from 1600, was built to accommodate 25,000 worshippers, which is surmised to be the entire population of the town at the time.

I probably couldn’t have named a famous Pole apart from Walesa and Pope John Paul II before our visit but now know that Copernicus the astronomer, Fahrenheit, Marie Curie, Chopin and Joseph Conrad the writer are amongst many others.

Poland is both full of surprises and a much larger country than you might suppose - well worth a visit.  Next time, I shall aim to take in the former capital of Katowice too. Sue Ockwell.

Memories of Monaco

Monday, June 15th, 2009

Monaco is perhaps at its most lovely in June, when the weather is perfect, the evenings are long and balmy and all the summer flowers are in bloom. Last week the Principality hosted some of the most recognisable faces from the small screen with the 49th Monte-Carlo TV Festival, with stars from CSI, Law and Order and Desperate Housewives (among many others) picking up awards at the glitzy ceremony at the Grimaldi Forum. TPR took out a large and diverse group of journalists to sample what Monaco has to offer across all budgets and all interests with some taking part in sports activities (to celebrate the Tour de France opening in Monaco this year on the 4th July), gastronomic surprises and Monaco’s nightlife.

To give the trip extra value for our client we also hosted Dancing on Ice stars Kyran Bracken (former England rugby player) and Chris Fountain (Hollyoaks), so that we could effectively secure double features from the publications. Everyone had a wonderful time - all with different highlights - but among them the Michelin starred Le Grill restaurant, the new bars and restaurants on the harbour (Zest and Brasserie de Monaco), the 100 year old sailing boat – Tuiga, jet-skiing, playing tennis on the very court on which Nadal has won the Monte-Carlo Masters five times, the bustling market, the helicopter ride, the chocolate spa experience and the casino. Fingers crossed for some excellent coverage! Polly Tracey.

Coping with the Big R

Monday, June 15th, 2009

Don’t just survive, thrive. That was the message from the AITO Specialist Travel Agents Conference in Gdansk this weekend (http://www.aitogdansk2009.org/), where some of the leading independent travel agents in the UK gave tips on how companies can beat the recession. It’s tough out there, but it’s not the end of the world as we know it: take some straightforward steps and beat the recession.
What can smart companies do?

Cut costs - sounds simple, sounds obvious, yet you would be amazed how many people don’t do this. Every company has at least 10% fat that can be trimmed without serious thinking. This is a good time to examine your company, take stock and make those tough decisions that are well overdue. This economy is giving us all a bumpy ride and this is no time for passengers.

Revaluate suppliers – take a look at telephone and electricity suppliers. Can you get a better deal from them? Can you take your custom elsewhere? They want to hold on to our business so ask them what they can do for you, otherwise, bid adios and see who really wants to do business with you.

Don’t spread yourself too thin – it’s far easier to sell existing products to new customers rather than new products to existing clients. The impossible dream is to be all things to all men but you can’t cover all bases. Cut out the serious product innovation and concentrate on simple tweaks; you know what sells well, just get new people to buy it.

Get an external viewpoint – sometimes being too close to your company means you can’t see the wood from the trees, issues you can’t see are crystal clear to an outsider. Set up an away day with some professional friends from other industries or fields and see what they have to say, you might be pleasantly surprised at their suggestions.

Take your bank manager to lunch – a banking professional is probably the last person you would think of entertaining at the moment, but you never know when you may need to call in a favour. Remain on good terms with your local branch manager and keep them updated on your company - they are far more likely to help you if you keep regular contact rather than an annual begging call. Ian Bradley.

With thanks to Jonathan Wall at Elman Wall Travel Accountants www.elmanwall.co.uk/

Warsaw - A Polish Gem

Friday, June 12th, 2009

En route to a conference in Gdansk, Poland (AITO Specialist Travel Agents’ conference, www.aitoagents.com), we had a few hours in Warsaw yesterday and it was a revelation - 29 degrees for starters!  It was a national holiday – Corpus Christi - so everyone was in party mood, and the old town was buzzing.  People strolled around with their families and pet dogs (and, bizarrely, a pet cat and a pet ferret on leads, too!).  Outdoor cafes and restaurants were packed, flowers cascaded from balconies and the sun shone.  We had booked a guide for a walking tour and learnt that the many beautiful mediaeval-looking buildings and squares were, in fact, all re-built in original style after the destruction of the war, which left Warsaw largely a pile of rubble.   (This is one reason why Polish builders are so good at their work, claimed our excellent guide.). Post war, they widened the key roads in Warsaw.  One of the major thoroughfares had just one bulding still standing - a church - and Polish engineers sliced it from its foundations and slid it back 25 metres on to new foundations to accommodate the widened road without harming the church.  Astonishing! 

We learnt that Marie Curie was Polish by birth, as was Chopin.  2010 sees the 200th anniversary of Chopin’s birth, which will be much celebrated by the Poles - a must-visit year for music lovers.  We had an excellent al fresco lunch in one of Warsaw’s squares - just £16 pp for starters, main courses and coffee, including beer, water and tip; great value. (Thank you to Kirker Holidays, www.kirkerholidays.com, for fixing both guide and lunch venue.)

This year sees the 20th anniversary of the fall of communism - the Velvet Revolution, which started in Poland.  Lech Walesa, who subsequently became President of Poland, and his colleagues in Solidarity, were prime movers in these momentous happenings, and today we are in Gdansk, on the Polish Baltic coast, where Solidarity took its first brave moves.  More on Gdansk tomorrow, when we’ve explored its cobbled streets… Sue Ockwell.